Best climbing nuts reddit anyways, cut to the second half, i molly bomb and win the round, but i whiff and don’t get the kill. Most trad here in Stockholm is face climbing broken up granite and I personally place my HB offsets more than even cams. Business, Economics, and Finance. if the rock type is suited to offsets have a set of theirs also. there's always a tipping point between cost, weight and strength. Until then, BD Momentum is a good default starting point. It's about making friends that last a life time and even getting your butt kicked once in a while. If it's in too deep, you can My most regular climbing pants right now are The North Face Beyond the Wall pants. American climber here who’s beginner rack started with BD nuts. my toxic teammate says “i think i just had a stroke”(they were spectating me since i was last alive Definitely use t-nuts and bolt-on holds. I was wondering what people who have used Ball Nuts thought of them and whether I should consider getting them in the long run. Petzl did some real-world tests of different types of falls. Similarly with cams, cheaper and lighter is seen as I recently built a relatively small home wall (8x8 + Kicker) using a 20cm (~8in) T-Nut spacing to eventually allow converting the wall into a Mini Moonboard. Or wearing it over lots of layers while ice climbing. They found: Easy fall (fall factor 0. 14+. The commonly used 4-prong nuts tend to tear the wood and start spinning more easily. I see numbers being thrown around and a common one being 3/8 of an inch for the t-nut size itself. Personally, I started with a set of BD nuts and a yellow and orange Metolius power cam. I'm sorry, but I just can't buy that. if you can place a hex = elephant bomb proof! but the weight, take only what you expect to place size 3 & 6 if you have a full set of nuts. Also have a few micros of offsets & stopper/rock/nuts. Made by a reputable company that produces the favorite active protection available, Black Diamond has been crafting and perfecting their take on the popular curved design longer than any other North American manufacturer. Feb 2, 2024 · Black Diamond Stoppers . Over 30+ years of climbing I have dropped 3 nuts and they were racked on ovals, sorry I am bitter. 6. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. In horizontal cracks though (or any case where the pull might be in a direction other than one of the two nut's primary axis), the first way amplifies the already-increased force on the nuts (already large because of the high V angle). 4. Whereas the Brits have the Wild Country Rocks on a WIre, the US has the Black Diamond Stoppers. Or concerned about weight because you're climbing 5. 7. While I've never used ball nuts myself, they may be worthwhile to use in place of your smallest nuts on routes that are tiny runout cracks as they provide a bit more protection (7kN compared to 2kN for 3. Ok, I went and looked it up. Imagine dragging deez nuts over your head. You seem to have a lot of insight, but to me, the thought of the lovable bums who make and sell gear just for the fun of it and because they love climbing and want to give back to the community is ju When we replace t-nuts, we completely remove the old t-nut, use four screws that are just under an inch and a half (so they wont stick through the wall, you could use longer ones and grind them off) to screw the patch directly onto the back of the wall with the holes aligned. Here's why I think this: I understand he needs to market his stuff and make a living, but I think half of the content of every podcast is him saying how he is amazing and with his experience you have a nuanced approach to climbing since you've been climbing for 69 years and basically invented training for climbing while also being amazing and did I tell you about how good I am and how much I know about the subject I You do all the work to carry multiple pieces up a climb and then this type of stacking eats through your gear at a double time. You can see it HERE. When t-nuts strip, you need to be able to get back there to fix them. And I really love them nuts. The video has to be an activity that the person is known for. Two reasons. Well you can order T-Nuts online, or you can get climbing holds that have screw holes and screw them into the wall. The big decided is what kind of rock you climb and being able to see good nut placements. You can use ropes and harnesses and nobody will think you're kinky. Trying to master my gear placement though. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. To avoid t-nut drama (misalignment, loosening), instead of hammering, tighten the nuts into the wood with a hold on the other side. Brazil nuts have a lot of selenium. Nuts=Stoppers Have a full set. You won't die of embarrassment if your mother finds your rock gear. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. PLEASE WRITE IT IN THE COMMENTS. Hexes are just big nuts. Recently, though, Patagonia was having a big sale, so I bought a pair of women's "climbing" pants and they're actually really nice for bouldering. I did a couple of trad climbs in the range of 5. Best advice would be to see what he is planning on using it for. Comparing sizes #1 green, #2 green, #3 gold Torque Nuts are almost the same size in all setting positions within one or two mm as the #5 green, #6 red, #7 gold Rockcentrics. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. For example, a professional tennis player pretending to be an amateur tennis player or a famous singer smurfing as an unknown singer. I do hate ovals for racking nuts, I think ovals increase the chance of dropping them. Anyone who says that stoppers are all the same, have never climbed pitches that have finicky gear and aren’t protectable without good nut placements. DMM offsets are seriously rad. Hi you climbing guys, i want to make my self a climbing t-shirt, and i am loking for a good funny sentence. Worked perfect to cover plenty of placement options and get me comfortable before going full trad. Because we believe the best climbing nut is not the best for everyone. 9, and my climbing partner let me borrow his, and they were enjoyable to use/place. Trad and sport harnesses can be different with the padding and gear loop layouts. Combined with the curve going 'across' the nut rather than 'down' the nut (creating little points on the bottom corners), it's extremely easy to get the bottom edge stuck on tiny little protrusions, preventing the rest of the nut from seating well. Most nuts have their strengths. com Jan 6, 2020 · The DMM HB Brass Offsets are easily one of the very best brass micro nuts on the market and perfect for anyone considering a big wall, aid climb, or a hard, thinly protected free climb. "Climbing's not about being the best or the hardest, or even the first. I've found offsets to a significant degree but not quite as much in sandstone, basalt and quartzite also. Check out our subreddit wiki that has tons of useful info for new climbers. But at the end of the day, you still love it and you go back for more. I have checked out the gear placements on top rope (since it’s above my sport climbing highest grade) and I determined the best placements are a mixture of small cams, regular nuts, offsets, and a peenut. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. 3): ~4kN Fall in the beginning of a climb, without much rope (fall factor 0. Their two distinct orientations include one that is offset and the other that's less tapered and more traditionally shaped, which together create a ton a versatility. One placement kills two pieces. Since there isn't much room to move around, to make the middle of the board more useful/fun I am thinking of adding more T-Nut holes between the existing ones, and adding more holds: We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of everyone looking to improve their knowledge. Then just pin them at the side with a smaller screw so they don’t rotate. Grab a set of nuts to start and practice placement. They're pretty rugged too, no rips but some pilling, and they've been put through some shit. 8mm spans via Trango). Posted by u/tirename - 16 votes and 31 comments there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . every area is different but that one fits a large majority of climbs. The home of Climbing on reddit. For unknown long climbs . I know it's… Tripod socket: the best way to improve IQ for overnight trips (and carry even more weight, thus TRAINING! /s) Decent AF and video capabilities: photos good, but filming rock climbing>>photos I might also consider to throw in an action camera, for super wide angle shots and action shots. Basically, not enough taper and curve down the length of the nut. Apr 13, 2025 · Micro nuts are climbing nuts that have been engineered to be extremely tiny. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. i’m a little pissed so i tell them to stfu in chat and just to play the game and chill since it’s unrated. You can go climbing any time of the month. Do you like Imagine Dragons?-Yeah sure. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. 5. Hello everyone! Recently i've started to buy my own trad rack, and I need some advice on buying second hand gear. For a small wall more T-Nuts is better. They probably work best in smooth cracks. And #4 purple Torque Nut is a little smaller than the #9 purple Rockcentrics. I think it's concerning the 2nd, 4th, and 5th ingredients are forms of sugar (syrups), and the 3rd ingredient contains sugar (barley malt extract). If you pack not that heavy like for indoor climbing wall, light climbing plan, etc. Some of these climbing nuts can be as light as 4 grams but still hold 2kN. 5-3 C4 cam size. 7): ~5kN The Crunchy peanut butter Clif bar is 260 calories and has 15g of added sugar (3. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. 14 votes, 22 comments. 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. But your climbing gear settings definitely need load lifters and large space. For your first set of nuts , you should buy whatever is the most popular with experienced climbers at your local crag. Stretchy, draw cord closure for the leg openings to cinch, and super soft. 5 and 5. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Hey there, what kind of music do you like? - Oh, I like Green Day, Eminem, you know that type of stuff. you can supplement with bigger or smaller gear if you need to. Where I climb in the Sierra I rarely take my normal nuts as my offsets are that much better. I'm drafting up plans for a home wall and I'm trying to figure out what kind of t-nuts and bolts people use (size-wise). 10 votes, 40 comments. My rack stands alone as a majority the time my partner doesn't have a rack or doesn't have small enough gear like micro nuts. Just use your sport climbing rope with your friend's gear as you build your rack. 8. Then place a new t-nut in the patch just like you would normally do. It's about exploration and adventure. How many of you use a second set of nuts? Hey folks, I have couple question regarding a home climbing wall and I'd like to know what you guys have done. Black Diamond Hexcentrics are ok. kind of annoying but not much we can do. 6 teaspoons). Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. Also, there are 3-prong t-nuts that are made for softer wood, such as plywood. Being honest about why you're doing this and how much risk you're willing to take is important. Pumpkin pepitas have zinc. 7). Depends where you'll be climbing. That being said, stacks like this were used in clean aid climbing in the 90s. set of nuts. It's over when you reach the peak. The Black Diamond Micro Stoppers are a popular choice, but the smallest sizes are only rated for direct aid. Generally, nuts need to be light enough that it's worth bringing 10-20 during a climb. The problem with screwing the holds in, is they are fairly permanent. Then go for the cams. Your first set of nuts should be versatile in the area you'll be climbing. Here's a quick rundown on why ball nuts might be better than similarly sized cams from Sierra Mountain Guides: Demystifying the Ball Nut. 5 - 5. just like usual, it doesn’t work. offsets nuts are really nice to have I have a finger crack project that takes nuts really well but cams are a pain on it since the rock is irregular with big crystals. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango Good work on creating access space behind the wall. If I was buying lumps of a rack in order of usability, I'd do it like this (assuming your already climbing with people who have racks and you own rope & draws): Nut tool, 3 locking biners (one jumbo), anchor chord (if that's your thing) . it's dangerous. Double up 2-7. I have a set of DMM offsets and I am thinking the brass offset micros would be the most versitile as the offsets can be places well enough where a non-offset can be places but has the added benefit of also being places in offset situations. A celebrity or professional pretending to be amateur usually under disguise. Well there’s the usual wallnuts and hb offsets but I’ve recently become quite fond of metolius curve nuts, they seem to almost work like an offset nut, and are fairly intuitive to place (to me at least). THANK YOU! If you're looking for omega-3 you'll get a better yield with chia or flax anyway. I can confirm that they’re inferior to most other nuts. And yes we are scared of falling. The same with those “double ended nuts” with different sizes on each end of the same cable. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. Posted by u/ManchesterMachine - 8 votes and 6 comments 11 votes, 19 comments. You don't need to look to a single nut or seed to meet all of your needs. All brands fit differently as well so maybe offering to purchase one in your budget is a good idea. It's about looking at climbing in a creative way. 305 votes, 96 comments. Everything you know about nuts applies to them. 28 votes, 22 comments. 4 inch grid might be a bit much but 4-6"'s will be good. Or side to side the spacing is 6" and top to bottom the spacing is 4". The Conrad Anker episode is also pretty good. Crypto So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. It covers everything from hard single pitch cragging where you're basically sport climbing on gear to sketchballs alpine climbing where the gear is mostly there so they can follow the rope to find your body. Almonds and walnuts are lower in saturated fats, the former has vitamin e, b, magnesium and others. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Always pin a hold fixed in this manner, as the friction alone isn’t enough to stop rotation. The harness becomes a lot more important when you're going to be wearing it all day, loading it down with 15lbs of trad gear, and doing hanging belays in it. Typically I wear leggings indoors, but outdoors, I wear lighter fabric hiking pants because they're comfy to move in and wick moisture. If you go with this thought, you may miss out on what you can do with hexes and also do dangerous things with nuts. A crowd sourced choice will give you a nice averaged answer. The john redhead episode of Jam Crack is just nuts, not sure if he's a mad genius or a massive knob. without load lifters will not that difficult. I think they’re just what we buy here and then don’t think about it. However I like the way DMM just decided to focus on the gear rather than the profit margins. You can go climbing with another woman and nobody will call you names or hassle you. . The David Roberts episodes of the Alpinist podcast were both brilliant, not easy listening but they helped to crystallise some of my thoughts about climbing and how screwed up it can be. 1. 9. At crags with splitter cracks, I obviously place more cams. You can buy special washers to fit inside standard T-Nut bolt holes within climbing holds that allow them to take a screw. Adjama Is my go to as well. 35L version with that gear setting will be painful for your shoulder and painful to you lack of enough space. Most nut placements here take offsets much better than straight ones. The Alloy Offset from DMM is our review team's favorite overall nut for all-around trad climbing because of their versatility and how perfect they are where most other pieces of passive protection or cams are adequate at best. All the climbing specific trousers I've ever tried, although "baggy" are often just made from non stretch fabric (I want to say cotton but imagine their mostly man made fibres) and I have big thighs so even clothes sold as baggy are still tight on me, I'd need MC Hammer pants before I might consider trousers to be baggy. Some examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How does aid climbing work?" Prior Weekly Trad Climber Thread posts Posted by u/menge101 - 3 votes and 9 comments The first way, on the other hand, loads the lower nut through the pulley. Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. Oct 19, 2021 · Concise climbing nuts reviews tailored to your needs. 5-3 bd camalots I wear softshell trousers. I use a modified D and due to the large size of the D it catches the nuts and lets you sort better. as every situation that you'd whip on them on a single nut would normally catch you (lead fall) with 10 kN, you then can engineer the weight and cost savings down. hoyivbk ytqi vpjxdj xxivyey oxnq lvtvu ibu iehtj qwaz jihue fikwhvt pkpmmi pygt zkm hrci