Trad climbing cam reviews. Short shorts not mandatory.

Trad climbing cam reviews It was a glowing review as the Totems really are an impressive bit of kit which perform excellently whilst providing something distinctly different to the current homogenous line-up of the mainstream cams - better than a conventional cam both in terms of increased holding power and decreased head width. “It’s like they’re literally biting into the rock,” a tester commented of the wide, skimmed lobes, which adhered extremely well to granite, sandstone, and basalt. Class-leading expansion range and price. Cams smaller and larger than this aren't used as frequently, so you can add them later. If you need to add some new climbing protection to your rack, check out our comprehensive climbing nuts review and climbing cam review. Metolius designed its Ultralight TCU to give you tiny but bomber trad gear that doesn't weigh you down. 80 cam ( maybe a 2. There may have been some curses thrown in for good measure. Belay and personal safety gear. Trad climbing cams to build up your trad rack from Kouba. Trad Climbing Gear > Cams This article about climbing cams is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics . Sep 26, 2024 · Trango Flex Cam review Best ultralight cams for trad climbing Flexible stem cam for unique placements Single axle cam for shallow placements Trango Flex Cam weight comparison Durability of Trango Flex Cam slings Cam placement range explained Advantages of double-length slings in climbing Color coding for easy identification of cams Lightweight The Omega Pacific Link Cam uses a one-of-a-kind triple-axle design to provide a greater expansion range than any other camming device on the market. With its innovative design and high-quality materials, this cam delivers exceptional performance and stability. In your opinion what are the must have sizes for start and the not so important ones? I think that a Hella big cam like a 7 would be hardly used where I climb. In your opinion, what cam sizes are the most crucial to have at an early stage of trad climbing? 200$ for both stoppers and cams. Their two distinct orientations include one that is offset and the other that's less tapered and more traditionally Aug 12, 2017 · If granite or basalt trad climbing is your thing the Alien is hard to beat. Its lightweight appeal is due to the Direct Axle Technology, which places each lobe as close to one another as possible. Mar 4, 2025 · We've chosen harnesses with robust leg loops, comfortable waistbelts, and plenty of gear loops for your quickdraws, cams, and other climbing equipment. Cams are considered active protection because the cam lobes expand and contract when the thumb trigger is pulled. In the real world of climbing, more essential than a cam angle is how well the cam is placed. Oct 28, 2014 · Image: Omega Pacific, Link Cam 1. Then, in the last 5-10 years there have been a lot of new cams introduced that give the Alien stiff competition: Metolius Master Cam and Black Diamond Camalot Two-star totem review hot take, I know. The lightweight and reasonably priced CAMP Photon Wire is a stellar pick if you would rather lighten the carabiner and not your wallet. Aug 2, 2023 · The Totem Climbing Cam – Yellow 0. 4 ULMC size 3 C4 size . Totems work well in horizontal placements. Explore rock climbing micro cams, cam sets and a range of sizes to suit any crack or break. The Omega Pacific Link Cam is a unique entry in the field of traditional climbing protection. 25 to 7. 6 - 12 cams: Cams are expensive, so start with one each of the key sizes: from approximately a half-inch wide to three inches wide. Basics of Trad Climbing Protection What Are Cams? Cams are a form of trad protection known as active I just got . Most regular cam ranges - think the DMM Dragons, Black Diamond Camalots or Wild Country Friends - start with a smallest size range of roughly 14mm - 22mm (BD 13. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. For someone beginning in trad climbing I would recommend them 100% for two reasons. Jun 19, 2017 · Value Rating: 10 Durability Rating: 8 Overall Rating: 8 Location of Test: Smith Rock State Park Product Name: Ultralight Master Cam Product Brand: Metolius Best Use: Trad climbing, alpine climbing Sizes: #00-8 The Full Review: Over the last few years I’ve taken Metolius Master Cams all over the Pacific Northwest. When the lobes are contracted, the cam is placed into the rock wall. Its robust construction ensures dependable performance in challenging placements, making it ideal for trad climbing and other adventurous pursuits. July 6, 2015 Update – Trigger Wire & Sleeve Issues The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: https://skl. Mar 1, 2023 · The climbing cam’s strength is also essential in looking for a climbing cam. I'm pretty sure what I'll be needing for passive pro, however, I'm not sure what I need for active. Finally, the DMM trad climbing cam is easy to use and it feels super stable. But beyond simply climbing lots of rocks, we used our lifetimes of climbing experience to carefully note important key factors for each cam and metric, described below. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. 3mm). Its compact size and lightweight design make it easy to carry as an additional piece of protection, providing climbers with added peace of mind on challenging sport climbs. Whether you love Fujifilm's X-Trans mirrorless cameras, GFX medium format cameras, their other digital cameras and DSLRs, or Instax instant film cameras - this is the place for you! Feb 7, 2010 · This is the lightest cam we tested and maybe the lightest camming device currently made. Affordable camming devices and climbing gear from £38 per cam. Aug 25, 2015 · The soft alloy does mean that if you are taking repeated lobs on a rough rock-type, they will wear out quicker than cams that use a harder alloy, though for British trad climbing I think you'd be going well to wear them out with any degree of speed, mine still have years of life left in them, even my older one which I got before going to Mar 26, 2015 · The biggest new features that stood out to me are the narrower head profile and the drop in weight. The six cams in the range cover placements from 7. Metolius Climbing color codes its cams to help you gauge the quality of a placement. com : Wild Country Friends Rock Climbing Cams - Lightweight, Active Protection for Trad & Alpine Climbing - Silver - 0. 3 ULMC size 2. Do you know what you are looking for in a set of cams? Shop for Cams at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Sep 30, 2015 · C amming devices, Friends, Cams, whatever you want to call them, they are amongst the most prized possessions of all trad climbers. May 8, 2015 · For those wishing to use it trad climbing, this is the perfect cam for marginal/insecure placements and a joy to use and place. Mar 13, 2018 · Amazon. 3mm. Apr 4, 2025 · Testing cams takes place all year round, as we use these devices every time we go traditional climbing — which is a lot. 80 is its user Apr 9, 2021 · The Totem cam, built is Spain where few splitter cracks exist, is not as well-known as other cams, but they’re a great option for aid climbing and winter mixed. The head of the cam is 20% narrower than traditional Aliens, making them even more effective at fitting into shallow crack placements. Flex Cams feature class leading range and are among the lightest 4-cams available. Mar 1, 2025 · The Totem Climbing Cam in Red, size 1. Climbers, both new and experienced, were used to solicit feedback while on single pitch routes and multi-pitch routes. Jan 25, 2010 · Aliens use to be hands down my favorite cam for big walls and climbs where you have tight and shallow placements. The head profile of the four cam Evolution is comparable to a Black Diamond C3 with three cams. This technology also helps you set each cam in tricky, shallow, and narrow placements with ease. Because of the wide range of cams and their range of function, for simplicity, we will focus on general-purpose cams, picking our choices from the large/medium and small range. 35) and two cams that were larger that 1. 4mm, DMM 14-21mm, WC 15. 4 : Sports & Outdoors The Alien X Cam is a classic, reliable and well made micro cam for all your trad climbing needs! Hand-made in Barcelona, this cam retains its original character while still offering improved performance and finishes. Aid climbers can clip into one stem and weight just 2 lobes (not recommend for free climbing). The Z4s, especially the . 10 and 2. Black Diamond C4 Camalot (C4) size . 4 days ago · In rock climbing, a cam (short for camming device), is a piece of trad climbing gear that is used to protect the climber during a fall. So, grab your rope, chalk bag, and your new trad climbing harness, and let's climb! Oct 31, 2024 · This review focuses on climbing nuts used for protecting traditional free climbing routes as well as for aid and big wall routes. Jan 24, 2023 · Trad climbing protection, or “pro,” includes cams, nuts, hexes, Big Bros, and Tricams. Perhaps even more impressive is that these cams keep a consistent angle throughout their range so holding power isn't compromised at either end of the spectrum. Oct 4, 2019 · I n 2015 Rob Greenwood reviewed the Totem Cams. Even talk with other climbers to see why they like the cams they own. 75°, as used with our Dragons, provides the optimum balance of holding power and range. One other piece of good news for those wishing to get a long life out of their Totem, you will be glad to hear they operate a repair service . They call it the Range Finder system. Duration: 4 months --Ratings--Value Rating: 8Durability Rating: 9Overall Rating: 9 Full Review: The Totem cam is likely the most versatile piece of climbing protection on the market May 6, 2025 · We love these guys for nearly any trad climbing use, from racking cams and stoppers to clipping the rope through extended runners or even building multi-pitch anchors. sh/wideboyz092115 mistakes when trad climbing which are all May 27, 2025 · Rock Climbing Mini Cam Keychain with Wall Mount - gift for climbers- rock climbing toy accessory - trad climbing gift - climbing keychain PDs3D Star Seller Mar 26, 2020 · Gear Placement on Leadhttps://rockclimb. 50, is a reliable and versatile piece of climbing protection. If you’re going to be climbing trad, you might soon start to look at some easy multi pitches to tackle. But their most epic feature was the new RigidFlex tech, an accordion sheathe that stiffens the stem when retracted to let you bury the unit, but then softens up once placed Jan 12, 2014 · I'm starting to build a trad rack tomorrow. 5 ULMC size 4 Third loop from the front placing larger cams front to back: C4 size . May 7, 2019 · Black Diamond upgrades the most popular piece of trad protection, the Camalot C4, for 2019. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the Apr 18, 2018 · This makes Totems very flexible, giving them 3 advantages over other cams. video-----About this video:Gear Placement in Trad Climbing:- Sometimes the 1st piece needs to be multi-direction Feb 21, 2025 · Differences in cam angle probably only make a significant difference in a lab or a perfect parallel crack. Sizes Available / Specs: --Test Information--Location of Test: Oregon rock: Smith, Broughton’s Bluff, Beacon Rock and more. Unofficial Fujifilm subreddit for Fuji photographers to share photos, ask questions, discuss digital photography, cameras and lenses, and share gear news and rumors. In addition Oct 25, 2024 · The Alloy Offset from DMM is our review team's favorite overall nut for all-around trad climbing because of their versatility and how perfect they are where most other pieces of passive protection or cams are adequate at best. Apr 14, 2020 · The Wild Country Zero Friends cams. If you combine these with the Metolius FS Mini carabiners or CAMP Nano 22, you will have the lightest possible climbing rack. There's also some weird cams like Metolius super cams, and the recently discontinued Omega Pacific Link cams, really big cams from valley giant, Merlin, and recently BD, and a whole slew of pretty generic cams from trango, camp, etc. . What Is Trad Climbing? Trad climbing is any climbing that involves removable gear. With grippy, sandblasted lobes and a narrow head width, the four-lobed Z4s sunk reliably deep in thin fissures and pin scars. May 17, 2025 · Wild Country Friend Cam Set review Best camming devices for trad climbing Complete trad rack for rock climbers Lightweight camming devices for beginners High-friction cam faces for secure placements Durable climbing gear for outdoor adventures Optimal camming angles for rock protection Dyneema sling benefits for climbing Versatile cam sizes for May 3, 2013 · After all, how well a cam model suits you is often dictated as much by preference as by objective design characteristics. 80 is a versatile and reliable climbing cam designed to enhance your climbing experience. Well, trad climbing is your answer! Unlike the early days, modern trad climbers have access to gear such as spring-loaded camming devices, commonly known as cams. Some prefer to use half ropes when trad climbing because of the drag, but that’s also personal preference. In general, traditional climbing can be more challenging than sport climbing or bouldering because placing gear requires more mental acuity in determining the best pieces to use for protection as well as ensuring they are properly placed. For large cams, it should be from 10 to 14 kilonewtons, while the smaller cams should have the lower ratings. We tested all of the products in our review in a variety of rock types in places like Squamish, Eldorado Canyon, Yosemite Valley, the North Cascades, Smith Rocks, Red Rock, Joshua Tree, Zion, and more. They use our innovative bi-color system to ease size selection and utilize doubled UltraTape slings so you can clip in at three different lengths. A selection of cams that covers this range will satisfy most of your climbing needs. 8-23. The same camming angle of 13. We don't particularly like using them when climbing near our limits, but on easier routes, especially long multi-pitch, we like to carry one due to its increased versatility, and feel like we can often get by with one Link Cam where we might have needed two normal cams. C4 size . I saw that there are a lot of sizes ranging from 0. 50 (maybe a 0. Also, since totem makes amazing cams, I bet they can make amazing carabiners that would color match the cams! Just an idea. 8mm – 28. May 19, 2023 · Check out our picks in our best climbing harness review. Nov 1, 2019 · Dragonfly Micro Cams provide versatile protection for narrow cracks and pockets. They do not walk in the cracks; well very little. But certain cams are best suited to certain types of climbing (style, location, rock type, etc. Second loop from the front placing cams front to back on the loop I start with: Metolius Ultralight Master Cams (ULMC) sizes 00, 0, and 1 all on one carabiner. They find their way into more placements than almost any other small cam. One customer says - "The downside is that, supposedly, you should replace dyneema slings every couple of years, whereas the beefy nylon slings found on the c4s should only need replacing every 5 or so. With winds strong enough to peel Sep 8, 2020 · It's worth defining what we've considered to be 'micro' cams in this review. Sep 5, 2016 · PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, and Top-Rope Climbing 4. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. May 29, 2020 · Trad climbing opens up many of the best and most famous climbs in the world. Aluminum Alloys. After testing, we found these cams are an off-width climber’s dream. A few also found that Dec 19, 2019 · So what makes up a standard trad rack?It's not precisely defined, but it goes something like this: A double set of cams from . Their unique design works in pockets and holes where others simply can't fit. Cams were used by a wide array of climbers on dozens of climbs, primarily on sandstone and granite. ". The functionality of these cams is pretty nice (though honestly not any better than a standard BD/WC cam), however the black totem has a major design flaw in that the load bearing cables that wrap around the lobes protrude significantly when the cam is retracted for placement. 5 to 2, one or two #3s and possibly one 4 (BD Camalots), a single or double set of finger sized and smaller cams, a complete set of stoppers, a good selection of micro stoppers, and 8-14 alpine quickdraws (double length sling with two lightweight wiregate carabiners). 75 Six cams were tested in the climbing cam category in 2018. Jan 30, 2018 · Totem Cams are our favorite cams for aid climbing because of their ability to engage only two lobes at a time, allowing for an endless array of strange, body-weight-only placements, multiple clip-in points, and super narrow heads, even in the larger hand sizes. ) and marrying your gear to your style of climbing is your best bet for getting the right piece the first time. May 11, 2024 · We review the "Flip-Stop" Cam Carabiner Stabilizers from Avant Climbing Innovations, a durable and long-lasting gear enhancement for easy cam clipping Aaron Pardy May 11, 2024 Share on X (Twitter) Share on Facebook Share on Email Share on SMS Apr 14, 2021 · A few extra safety carabiners for your anchor are useful as well. 8-26. The size 1 Dragonfly is our smallest certified climbing cam. Oct 1, 2020 · So you’ve taken up climbing, but decided that sport climbing is too soft and you’re looking for a bit more grit, pain, and fear. There is a reason why cam brands like Totem, Black Biamond, DMM, Wild Country, and Metolius are so popular. If you're lucky enough to own a spangly set of top-of-the-range cams, then you can bet your bottom dollar that your mates are always keen to climb on your rack. Cams are reliable and versatile pieces of trad protection that are designed to be placed in parallel sided cracks, where nuts won't work. 40 or 0. 8 out of 5 stars 2,577 15 offers from $7400 $ 74 00 Heya I was looking kouba cams since I want to buy some of them for my multi pitch climbs. If Snoop Dog went trad climbing, his cam of choice would be Wild Country’s new Zero Friends, because they’re so sticky-icky. Short shorts not mandatory. you can have a full rack for a fraction of the price of a rack from any other brand allowing you to leave piece of gear behind if you need to bail out from a route without feeling like you've just thrown away 200$. It’s all about confidence and safety – because a great adventure starts with the right gear. 1 and 0 Z4 a couple weeks ago so can't give a fair review yet, but they seem to be really nice and have already come in very handy for thin, shallow seams. Whether you’re a gym-goer or an experienced sport climber, here’s what you’ll need to know to get started as a trad climber. Climbing up and down the Willamette Valley, the Columbia Gorge, Smith Rock, and Free UK delivery for orders over £60 | Buy trad climbing cams online from Sgùrr Shop. Apr 26, 2025 · ‘Tier S’ cams !! All I want to use! I would love if there was at least one cam that was smaller than than the 0. We’re here to help you choose the best climbing cams so you can jam your way up that next crack Feb 2, 2024 · In this article, we discuss the best cam sets for trad climbing, backed by reviews from the climbing experts and the consensus of the climbing community. Yellow Totem Who are they for? Totem Cams are a very specialized piece of equipment. If you have other climbing friends with different brands of cams in their rack that you can try, go and do that. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Most of the testing took place “in the field,” by using cams on trad climbs. Each alloy is listed as a number, such as 6081 Oct 18, 2021 · Trad Climbing is the more traditional form of rock climbing where the protection from falling is placed into the wall by the climber. What makes them great for aid is the ability to engage only two lobes at a time, allowing for a variety of placements and clip-in points. The cam works great and it is smoother. Apr 14, 2020 · The Black Diamond Camalot Z4 & Z4 Offset cams. I wrote a number of other articles on the Alien cam if you want some more information about the new design and the issues experienced: June 16 2015: Field Tested – Alien Evolution Cams. 2, work great in the pin scars of the Gunks, but when it gets pebbly and weird I find a whole lot of TCU placements that can't be protected by other cams. As hot new devices are released (or old favorites updated), we make sure to purchase a set and start finding out how well they work, comparing them against all of the other cams in this review. At GearLab, we've tested a wide variety of climbing gear over the past decade+ and have recommendations for every climber, from beginner to expert. Make sure that all the comes are certified and have a listed strength rating in kilonewtons. The Aug 2, 2023 · While primarily designed for trad climbing, the DMM Dragon Cam can also be used in sport climbing scenarios where additional gear is needed for certain sections of the route. One of the standout features of the Totem Climbing Cam – Yellow 0. Dec 19, 2019 · Free Climbing. Jul 8, 2011 · --Product Information--Product Name: CamProduct Brand: TotemBest Use: Trad climbing, aid. Easy-to-use Design. Falls were taken. As a climber ascends they place pieces of gear – like cams or nuts – into faults in the rock, then clip their rope into carabiners that are also clipped to the gear. In the right situation, Link Cams can be advantageous weapons on a free climber's rack. The cam lobes of every best climbing cam in USA are made of some aluminum alloy. 50). I'll be getting a set of stoppers and hopefully a couple cams, too. sawyuc caozpa xrlbt rmjky fuua hswxnb yfoj knf kqpn vbsu