Slab vs vertical climbing. Especially compared to V5 overhang vs V10 overhang.

Slab vs vertical climbing overhanging. movementforclimbers. Although the move may seem straightforward, it’s not easy to master this fundamental climbing technique. For outdoor, I would have dedicated shoes for slabs vs overhang. Since you mentioned slab, I'm assuming you are also climbing outdoors. Weight Distribution. Slab routes feature low-angle terrain, often characterized by smooth, vertical to slightly overhanging rock faces with sparse holds. Jan 11, 2022 · Its less aggressive shape also helps when the terrain turns less than vertical. A flatter, more neutral and symmetrical shoe will perform better on lower-angle surfaces, like slabs, making it easier to get maximum friction contact when smearing. Sure, there is technique in slab climbing, as in any physical activity or movement pattern. Climbing wall geometry centers on three primary angles: vertical (90 degrees), slab (less than 90 degrees) and overhang (more than 90 degrees). A climber cuts feet on overhang terrain. Understanding a Slab Wall. Outside slab shuts me down hard. To successfully navigate slabs, climbers must focus on weight distribution, balance, core strength, and smearing techniques. In sport climbing, the protection is permanently fixed to the rock. Unique challenges of slab Nov 4, 2023 · Although there is no consensus, people usually say technical climbing when they mean some variation of slab (or vertical) climbing. Sep 22, 2021 · Yes, most friction climbing is slab climbing – but not all. 45* slab. As I discussed in my slab shoe guide, the angle of the rock is a factor at play. These can be done on a yoga block or some form of equipment that is raised above the floor. Sep 29, 2023 · The journey to becoming a slab pro involves mastering a range of techniques that prioritize balance and footwork over brute strength. Lastly, slab has a negative degree and is crucial in learning how to climb efficiently. Slab Climbing. Life Climbing builds world-class climbing facilities. Nov 2, 2020 · Article 1: Technique tips for climbing overhangs. Techniques such as smearing, where climbers maximize their grip by keeping the balls of their feet in direct contact with the rock, and maintaining a low heel position to enhance friction, are essential in navigating the slab terrains. But the sport has evolved massively since the crack-and-slab epoch, and we now need shoes for a wide range of specific applications: everything from garage spray walls and steep sport routes to multipitch climbing. Climbers on slabs rely more on balance, footwork, and precise movements rather than strength. The combination of minimal holds and a lack of steepness makes slab climbing particularly demanding. Many of the most extreme slab cruxes consist of sidepull combinations, pulling sideways on vertical edges with arms extended in an iron-cross position. This type of climbing is a great way to test a shoe’s In rock climbing, an overhang is a type of route that leans back at an angle of over 90 degrees for part or all of the climb, and at its most severe can be a horizontal roof. Discover the intricacies of slab climbing, a unique style that prioritizes finesse, balance, and technique over sheer strength. It means that the Miura VS is an aggressive (downturned) climbing shoe designed for performance. Once you reach an intermediate level of climbing, you will be jonesing for something more overhung! Vertical. The end of your toe cap is grinding against the high-friction wall when you do this, and the forces of friction are MUCH greater than the oft-parroted “toe drag/bad foot technique” that Apr 16, 2025 · In general, flat shoes are excellent for slabs and vertical walls. A vertical angle is Picture this: your foot, standing correctly on a very small hold on a vertical or near-vertical wall, toes in, and pushing off the hold to climb upward. Head coach at TCH London, Cris, gives his super quick tips on how to best climb different wall angles. On steep routes, as the grades go up the holds get smaller and the moves get bigger. For vertical walls, a moderate shoe is Dec 5, 2022 · The age-old debate! Most climbers will have a preference for climbing wall angle but it's important to climb both to become a good all-round climber 🧗 Head Love it or hate it, slab climbing is part of being a well rounded climber. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. On steeper climbs , think about sinking deep into the flag by hanging low off the supporting hand and foot while really activating the flagging foot and keeping your Oct 10, 2023 · Slab climbing presents a unique set of challenges that set it apart from other climbing styles. Watch below. There are other climbers who don’t mind slab climbing, and prefer it to overhangs and vertical routes because slab climbing offers routes that require more balance than your average overhang. Or is it more about the rock type? Jun 5, 2024 · Slabs are rock faces that are angled at less than 90 degrees or less than vertical. Apr 30, 2023 · The Miura VS is designed with high-asymmetry and PD 75 last. Then there are “vertical” walls that go straight up towards the ceiling. Sep 2, 2024 · In rock climbing a slab climb (or friction climb) is a type of climbing route where the rock face is 'off-angle' and not fully vertical. In the past year I've realised that there are loads of really great local boulder problems that I haven't tried (or known about) that are doable for me Some gyms have powerful overhung climbing setters who set pretty easy slabs. In rock climbing a slab climb (or friction climb) is a type of climbing route where the rock face is 'off-angle' and not fully vertical. Slab routes often require movement that focuses on balance. Routes less than 90 degrees would usually be described as a slab. vertical vs. Learning good slab technique and being comfortable with its committing nature is e Jun 17, 2021 · Struggling to understand the difference between Slab climbing and Face climbing, particularly when the latter gets mostly vertical. Feb 9, 2023 · Smearing is a common climbing technique utilized in both indoor and outdoor rock climbing. Some gyms I climb a grade or 2 harder on overhung. On slab the holds can only get so small. With these two articles, you’ll be able to put it all together and climb with total body efficiency on slab climbing. Vertical faces are exactly that—rock faces angled at 90 degrees, which is more or less straight up. I used to climb harder slab back when my max grade was around V5-ish. Aug 27, 2024 · Discover expert tips and techniques to master slab climbing, one of the most challenging yet rewarding styles in the climbing gym. The Crack Climber Dec 13, 2022 · Especially if you are climbing outdoors, you are likely to encounter walls at different angles, even ones that change angle throughout the climb. Gravity affects the feel of climbing even though the mechanics may still be the same. May 27, 2025 · There are now so many different lines of climbing shoes, it’s hard to believe that back in the day there were only a handful of options. Slab climbing is a challenging aspect of indoor climbing that requires a different set of techniques compared to overhangs. Vert routes vary in the skills and technique required. I’d say some gyms I climb a grade or 2 harder on slab. com/free-ebo Mar 17, 2022 · After climbing overhangs and vertical walls for some time, you develop certain habits and reflexes, most of which are fundamentally different from slab climbing. You can still get lots of mileage on neutral shows on gym overhangs. Climbing Slab v Overhang. Most people mean slab when the talk about friction climbing. The age-old debate! Most climbers will have a preference for climbing wall angle but it's important to climb both to become a good all-round climber. Once mastered, it can significantly enhance a climber’s progression, especially on slab-like surfaces and competition problems. Sep 22, 2023 · What Is Slab Climbing? Slab climbing refers to rock climbing where the angle of the wall is less than vertical. In a previous article, we covered what your lower body should be doing on slab climbing. When discussing “how steep” a wall is, for instance, we have three general terms: slab, vertical, and overhang . Vertical Walls: Offer a balanced climbing experience engaging both upper & lower body strength. It’s more common to smear when climbing outdoors, but some indoor climbs require the climber to utilize this technique on volumes or rounded 5. For those perhaps a little unsure, slab climbing is classified as any rock face that has an angle of less than 90 degrees, so it is less steep than a vertical Nov 16, 2020 · But on the slab, in particular, it is difficult to put a sequence of holds on the wall that hits the sweet spot of tough but doable. Apr 14, 2019 · Vertical Faces . This is the main reason why you might find slab climbing and straight walls to be Aug 4, 2023 · The amount of smearing you will do as a rock climber depends heavily on the style you like to climb. And I just think it's wrong. Vertical walls provide a neutral starting point ideal for beginners while maintaining technical challenge through hold placement. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Slabs are rock faces that are angled at less than 90 degrees or less than vertical. 60* slab (which is more vertical than a 45* slab). 15-Degree Overhangs: Create moderate difficulty ideal for intermediate climbers developing power. I tested in the gym at first—for me, these new, noticeably stiffer Katanas needed more break-in—then mostly on Colorado . Nov 12, 2024 · The handholds are small, so climbers need to pay close attention to where they put their hands and feet as they slowly move up the wall. Overhang (and roof) climbs have existed throughout climbing, originally in aid climbing where mechanical devices were used Nov 11, 2023 · The biggest factor you will want to take into consideration is the angle and type of rock you’re climbing on. Climbing a slab requires a good sense of your feet and how to use them, as well as balance and rock shoes with Just call it 45* overhang vs. Scarpa Instinct VS and Lace-up In bouldering, a "slab" refers to a climbing surface that is less than vertical, typically leaning at an angle. Maybe 3 grades lower on outdoor slab vs overhung. From essential gear to top global locations, this article covers everything you need to navigate the world of less-than-vertical climbs with confidence Jun 27, 2017 · Performing best on overhanging terrain, the Instinct VS also has the ability to handle slab and vertical climbing well, making it reliable in almost any situation Now with the introduction of the lace-up version, which provides stability and strength on vertical terrain, the Instinct line may simply be unstoppable. If you feel like a goat traversing a cliffside, it’s slab! Vert – Vert terrain is at a 90-degree angle (aka, vertical). Feb 25, 2025 · Slab Climbing (Less Than Vertical) Slab climbing requires balance, technique, and careful foot placement. To nail those smears you want as much shoe surface touching the stone as possible, which means flat and soft. I find slab climbing a very patient art that requires balance, and (usually) very little strength. Vertical Climbing (90 Jun 23, 2024 · Slab Climbing Techniques. This allows the Scarpa Instinct VS to flex and smear better on slabs and tricky corners than more conventionally designed bouldering shoes. Oct 24, 2023 · Slab vs. Download Your Free e-book: "How to Maximize Your First Year of Climbing" - the guide I wish I had when I started:https://www. This isn't math, its language there is no need for a consistent 0* reference point and there shouldn't be anything to "measure" when trying to communicate clearly. An aggressive shoe will perform better on overhanging terrain, propelling your power into the toe box. My Favorite All Around Shoes. Jan 31, 2022 · This is the key to hard slab climbing: maintaining points of contact and letting go with the fingers of one hand only to quickly latch the next edge. Bolts and hangers are spaced intermittently on the route, so the climber simply clips the rope to those as they pass by. Nov 17, 2023 · In general, flat shoes are excellent for slabs and vertical walls. Mar 10, 2025 · In the High Sierra and Yosemite, we test shoes meant for traditional climbing in the cracks and slabs, often on less than vertical terrain. Oct 6, 2022 · Remember, on a slab wall, we can generally get all of our weight on our feet. This means that even if your arm positioning isn’t ideal, your arms are doing very little of the work. When you climb a slab, the general rule is that you keep your weight on your feet. Slab climbing is the perfect way to get more confident before trying steeper walls. Get whatever is comfortable and inexpensive. Since the wall leans away from the climber, less upper body strength is needed, making it a useful terrain for learning technique. Flat shoes can be soft or stiff. Proper weight distribution is crucial when Slab – Slab terrain is at an angle less than 90 degrees. But in slab climbs, the bolts are usually few and far apart, and there aren’t many opportunities to place trad gear, as slabs are often characterized by their smooth Aug 11, 2022 · In the climbing world, there are vertical walls, overhang walls, and slab walls. If you are shifting your weight properly, your legs should be doing the work. Climbing shoes are usually described as being good for a particular technique, e. And if you see a beginner climbing overhangs really well then typically they’ve come from a more athletic background and are quite strong especially in their core. This technique is most often utilized on slabs where the angle of the wall is less than vertical. In a commercial gym it makes sense as a way to cater to brand-new climbers, tricky slab-climbing, and specific holds, but a home gym is for training and personal enjoyment and a big vertical wall will become uninteresting way too fast. Slabs often have subtle features and require careful reading of the rock to ascend effectively. For both types of climbing, there is traditional as well as sports climbing. Friction slab is a type of slab climbing where there aren’t many holds, and most of your foot and hand holds are mainly about friction rather than a defined Furthermore, vertical walls offer the advantage of replicating the type of climbing found on many traditional outdoor routes making the practice very relevant to real-world climbing scenarios. Climbing gyms include: Vertical Adventures, Chambers Purely Boulders, Bloc Garten, and Climb Nittany If you prefer slab climbing or vertical climbs or just want to train the muscle groups that benefit those types of climbs then try introducing calf raises into your exercise regime. good for smearing on slabby routes, heel hooking on overhangs/roofs etc. In addition, The Miura VS has P3 technology which allows climbers to exert power through their toes on the smallest of features. Overhanging Walls. Especially compared to V5 overhang vs V10 overhang. There are two forms of lead climbing: Sport and Traditional (mostly just called “trad”). Once you get to the vertical wall, however, getting pumped becomes much more common. A low-angle slab has a greater reliance on smearing, whereas a high-angle slab and vertical faces will require your shoes to have plenty of edging power. While the softer angle enables climbers to place more of their body weight on their feet, slab climbs maintain the challenge by having smaller holds. Nov 10, 2023 · For many, an all-around climbing shoe is called for. Slab Walls: Require precise footwork balance & technique but put less strain on your upper body. Therefore, it will not give us good support in this way. Vertical climbing is perpendicular within a few degrees and an overhang is much steeper. Or 60* overhang (which is steeper than a 45* overhang) vs. Aug 19, 2024 · Anthony mainly tested in Squamish (on thin cracks/seams, a roof hand crack, brief offwidth, steep slabs, and stem corners), three days of vertical gneiss face climbing, and two days of overhanging quartzite face climbing. Slab climbing is also a different type of climbing compared to overhang and vertical climbing, so some climbers find it harder. I get by primarily with passable technique and footwork and okay finger strength, none of which I seem to be able to transfer to climbing on anything worse than a shallow overhang. Usually, climbers will consider faces that are slightly less than 90 degrees to be vertical since they are climbed by the same techniques. In contrast to overhung or steep vertical climbs where lots of upper body pulling is required, when slab climbing the climber needs to stand on their feet and utilize good slab climbing technique. Like climbing slabs, footwork is very important when you climb Jul 10, 2021 · In contrast to slab climbing, face climbing refers to routes on a vertical wall of about 90 degrees. Learn how to master precise footwork, subtle body movements, and effective use of friction on tilted rock surfaces. A wall that tilts back away from you, and is thus less steep than vertical, is called a slab. Finding an all-day climbing shoe that can crush hard across all terrain and climbing styles is a tall order. Climbing a slab requires balance and confidence in your footholds. Overhanging walls are bouldering walls angled more than 90 degrees, making them one of the most difficult types of bouldering walls Nov 1, 2022 · Your descriptions of the first three angles are pretty spot on. For gym climbing, my unpopular opinion is that the shoes don't matter that much. Climbing a slab requires a good sense of your feet and how to use them as well as balance and rock shoes with lots of friction. g. (Links to 'Article 2 – Slabs' & 'Article 3 - Arêtes' at the base of the page) Grab the grips and twist your hips! Probably the most important technique tip you will find, and applicable for all types of climbing, is to be aware of your centre of gravity and keep your hips close to the wall. Based on the provided information, a slab wall is defined by its specific angle: Definition: A wall that tilts back away from you, resulting in it being less Oct 9, 2020 · Sport Climbing vs Trad Climbing. The stiffer they are, the better they’ll be on harder vertical or slab routes, such as when you need to stand on quarter-inch edges. May 5, 2025 · A slab wall, often simply called a slab, is a climbing wall or rock face that tilts back away from the climber, making it less steep than a vertical surface. Slab routes often involve small footholds and require precise weight distribution. Softer flatter shoes are good for crack climbing, since they torque well into cracks. Saved Content. Something that can help send your bouldering project, clip the chains on a pumpy sport route and even top out a tasty trad line, if that’s your thing. As per title, I'm awful at climbing anything on an overhang (V4-6 on slab/vert, V3-4 on overhang). Slab walls are also not a great idea if you think you may progress quickly. Jul 17, 2021 · Overall, it’s a very important climbing technique that serves you especially well when climbing outdoors on a route with little footholds or where they’re far apart. May 26, 2023 · Climbing Vertical Terrain (medium features, pockets, and thin cracks) As climbs start to pitch toward the 80-90º realm, it becomes more difficult to simply stand up on climbing holds and features, so we need to ask more from our shoes. Now you’ll learn about the upper-body technique of straight-arming. But there's a world of difference between V5 slab and V10 slab. For those who are obsessed with friction-y, off-vertical routes, you want to look for a shoe with no downturn and a soft sole—slippers are often a great option for slab climbing. Apr 24, 2024 · • Flagging is useful for all angles of climbing terrain, and it can feel super-balancey on more vertical angles, so it’s important to keep your whole body flexed and tight. Mar 10, 2020 · The Slab Aficionado. For example, my reflex allows me to position myself to effectively grab the hold with the side of my feet quickly. In this article, we’ll learn all about indoor climbing walls and their angles. oetkc gcxi rnhp ahga hcshgvsw tdhxz jdt glm lkb lfjfbyg