Max hang vs climbing grade. 10 votes, 16 comments.

Max hang vs climbing grade Land of Diminishing Returns. This is something I do with about 50% of my working weight for max hangs for like 30s on a 20mm edge, as part of my warmup to climbing or hanging. Nov 9, 2022 · 2 session max fingerboards per week where on Tuesday my load is 90% of max, and on Friday my load is 85% of max I test myself after four weeks. This seems fairly inconsistent with my climbing partners who may not be able to climb as hard of grades as me, but can crush my hang boarding weights. It's not just technique, but planning, skin management, selecting appropriate climbs, reading problems so you don't waste the above, etc. Steve floated an interesting idea about frequent plateauing w/ the Eva Lopez max hang protocol. 7 years of climbing experience were selected under the following criteria: Aug 12, 2020 · The 4th round of this hangboard routine will be either a minimal edge or Max hang Protocol. I published the link on Or focused on board climbing without hangboardingin either instance my open-hand strength usually dropsa 20 mm edge can begin to feel difficultyet after a few weeks of consistent max-hang and recruitment pulls (opposite end of intensity spectrum from Emil's protocol) my comfort on the edge improves dramatically. Apr 2, 2021 · If your Max Hang measurement is within the range, but your project involves pulling on 6mm crimps in a near-vertical setting, then maybe practicing your full crimp will serve you better than adding another 10lbs on a 20mm edge. 12c and 7A+/V7). I have started climbing around my 30s, but I have had good training background. hang routine (with multiple sets) so I can't "max it out" like on a single 10s hang. We know that repeaters are better for hypertrophy, so that seems to make sense. Set up: Max hangs are classically prescribed in the 80-95% range of maximum. Currently my session grade is 7b, and max is 7c, but I want to improve to max 8a/8a + and session Oct 4, 2017 · They probably did a statistical model where climbing performance as some linear model of finger strength. For the lower grades, we can get some data from this Finger Strength Vs Climbing Ability video. Mar 10, 2024 · Interestingly, the increases between grades are linear 4% increases. 20-mm Max Hang (total pounds added) and 20-mm Max hang (strength:weight ratio) – Now to the meaty, juicy stuff that everyone Jun 20, 2022 · you NEVER increase the number of hangs. It lets you compare your max-hang numbers to your bouldering grade. I recommend using 14 - 20mm crimp edges, 20 - 30mm two-finger pockets, three-finger drag (photo), and if you’re really strong, monos. this online finger strength calculator ) always claim that my fingers are very weak for the grades I climb. The y axis is the percentage of body weight that you can hang for 5 seconds in addition to your body weight, the x axis the grade that you should be able to redpoint / boulder. Combining a finger program with mental conditioning and movement training can further optimize per. you increase until you find your max and do 3. The chart below to convert this weight into a grade was put together by combining data from several sources, including those listed below. g. but even that is outdated, none I climb V5 max, and hang +39 lbs max, so I'm about average! (I am 155 to 160 lbs) Hey crrimson ! You can hang 125. I’d never trained block before until last week. If you want to train pockets, you don’t need a pocket… just hang off fewer fingers! Becoming familiar with an edge raises your awareness of how conditions and skin affect your performance. He speculates that a 10" max hang is more targeted at recruitment whereas low total set repeaters are more beneficial for strength building. – Hang for 7-10 seconds, the minuscule hold you can. Interesting thougth about body size vs. Jan 12, 2023 · Lastly, let’s talk about the obvious worst test: max hangs. As to Emil’s video and the supposed incongruencies, well he had responses giving a perceived idea on what grade they would give these strength benchmarks. Add weight, as needed, to make each hang challenging but yet not so heavy that you can’t complete a set of repeaters (the amount of weight will be much less than in the two previous maximum . But if I use the full crimp numbers, then I'm exactly at the mean (145%). Mar 8, 2023 · All you need to do is register for a 1-month subscription plan and download the Excel spreadsheet. So even though people say stuff like ‘one-arm hanging a 20mm edge is an 8a boulder’, it is very possible to climb 8a without being able to do the corresponding hangboard ‘benchmark’. Max weighted hang (five seconds). Feb 28, 2022 · Dr. About a min. That is an actual physical difference that makes a difference in ability to one arm hang on edge. Few deatils to add. Your current measurement exceeds the range provided for your project grade. The “middle of the bell curve” climber at each grade trends upward from 125-175%bw hangs from V3-V13. It gives you instant feedback on how your hang numbers compare to other climbers in the same grade range. Will be refined with additional data. I'm at BW+32% (+55 lbs) right now, and am solid on V5, can send V6 in a few tries, and project V7. you ALWAYS increase the amount of weight. but i don't see how the one arm hang correlation to climbing grade ability is height dependent as in causation. The MaxHangs MAW_MED training spreadsheet features a complete 8-week training plan that consists of 4 weeks of MaxHangs MAW and 4 weeks of MaxHangs MED. Hangboarding’s transfer from off-the-wall training to on-the-wall performance is almost instantaneous, especially considering that improvements in finger strength will increase both maximum boulder and sport grade. 12c, V7. Allow yourself approximately 3 minutes of rest before moving on to the next repetition. Tyler Nelson is a certified NSCA Strength and Conditioning Specialist and the co-founder and a content creator for The Performance Climbing Coach seminar series, The Camp Dec 6, 2022 · Steve floated an interesting idea about frequent plateauing w/ the Eva Lopez max hang protocol. This model says: give me your finger strength, and I will say what your max grade is. Now, if you are ready to jump into hangboarding keep reading for a fantastic beginner hangboard routine! Mar 10, 2023 · Pick a load you can hang for 3 seconds with 5 seconds of rest between reps. The interesting thing is, on the Lattice test, if I use the half crimp numbers they tell me I'm super weak vs. Dec 19, 2022 · The deceptiveness of using climbing metrics like hand strength or pulling strength for evaluating climbing ability; Numerically quantifying hangboard for a better understanding of when and why hangboard may be useful for hand strength long term; Repeaters and max hang analysis for strength and hypertrophy (ft. 175% for 7C+. Nov 21, 2022 · Max hang sessions do not focus on building muscle size or endurance. Jun 4, 2024 · Weighted pull-ups (five-rep max). Also, he can't one arm hang BM middle edge in half crimp, but he has the ability to send V13 right now without a doubt. I finished the 2019 year off with a max hang weight of 45lb/20kg or 128% body weight. Lattice and the like (e. Nov 9, 2022 · 4. 5lbs, which also puts me at V10 with a max outdoor send of V7. Feb 6, 2023 · A large edge for warming-up and pull-ups (45mm), a good max hang edge (20mm) and a micro edge (10mm). maybe i'm just totally missing something or not understanding what either of you two are saying ITT: People who don't realize that they would climb several grades over their max if Adam Ondra could posses your body as a glorious climbing ghost. Contribution of strength training to climbing. Hang your Tindeq Progressor above your head with the V-Ring, or any other portable edge attached, so that your arm is slightly bent when holding the edge. -Single variable analysis (which showed max hang is the single biggest factor in bouldering grade) -Multivariate Analysis (showed a negative correlation between max hang and climbing grades) In a nutshell two models came to two opposite conclusion, however, the latter has far superior statistical power therefore more likely to be accurate. My numbers are a bit lower because I follow a Maishe/Lopez style max. What it says is that it's possible for somebody to climb V13 with your level of strength if they also have everything else well sorted - movement efficiency, head, projecting tactics Just curious because most of the typical grade-to-max hang charts are with the standard 20 mm edge, but I believe the BM2000 center edge is a relatively “juggier” 22-23 mm. with all the benchmarking and testing going on around this subreddit I thought it would be time for a relaunch of my bouldering grade to max-hang web app. Therefore, each 6-hang set will take about 1 minute. Repeaters: This workout emulates the experience of reaching for the next hold during a climb. Granted I did it on an 18mm edge as opposed to 20mm but I was still only able to hang 20kg for the 7seconds required. your regiment is likely for rope climbing if you're doing arc training. Height – 178 cm; Weight – 74. Oct 25, 2022 · Below you can see four of our measurements (max hang, max weighted pull, max reps pull, and 7:3 repeater), separated by both gender (male and female) and climbing discipline (bouldering and sport climbing). Units are in seconds. Glossary • 1RM (1-Rep Max): The maximal weight you can lift for a single repetition with correct technique. Once the load is too high for you to complete a full 7 second hang in a half crimp position. This way each hang-rest couplet takes exactly 1 minute. Say climbing_performance = a + b*finger_strength. They use 4 different measures of finger strength/finger endurance. Looks a bit strange that discrepancy. Apparently I should be climbing V13 That's exactly how people misread & fail to understand these correlations. For example, if you’re a 150 pound climber whose 5 second test score is with 50 pounds added (200 pound total load), then you’re taking 85% of the total load (200 pounds) and training at that level. Mar 16, 2024 · Apparently people climbing similar grades would be expected to hang an extra 50% on top of their bodyweight. 5; Box Split – 148 cm; Max Hang – 101kg (BW +25 kg 10 votes, 16 comments. Before we move on, let me introduce the person who has rekindled the interest in long-duration isometric hangs for rock climbing training several years ago. you start with 1 lb. V4 — 128% V7 — 146% Dec 1, 2020 · In our case, our two dimensional space is made using Strength:Weight ratio for 10 second Max Hang on a 20mm edge and Str:Wt ratio for 1 rep Max Weighted Pull-Up from a bar or jugs. Jan 24, 2023 · For the lowest risk of tendon injury, prioritize climbing as much as possible. . Power Company Podcast and Steve What I’m getting at here is that it’s not a good idea to just blindly equate climbing a certain grade with being able to hang a specific size edge. So when they use this model, they can compare what the model says and what they actually observe. Apr 24, 2020 · Fortunately, it was Christmas, just in time to take a little time off. 7 sec on, 3 sec off, 6 reps, 10 sets, 1 min rest, 40% max intensity). More data in the V12 and up range would be great though. I recently began to do max hangs and on a 20mm edge, I can barely hold my bodyweight for 10 seconds. A max score is the highest load completed for the set time staying in the same grip position. finger strength ratio. You’ll need to do a few sets with increasing weight to determine your five-rep max. On average, people bouldering your grade can hang 124. if you can hang 7s you move to 2 lbs. Do not lock off at 90 degrees. At least I now know where my training should be focused For reference I hang +67. I’m starting up a training cycle including max hangs for 8-10 weeks leading into the good weather in the red river gorge. I wanted to show that… Not a data scientist, but I'm pretty suspicious of this analysis. Estimations are maximum volatile contraction (MVC) in peak forces for each grade on one hand. My open hand max hang is okay: it looks decent in sport climbing but quite bad in bouldering – especially in the V7-9 range, where I want to be. This is the benchmark measure of maximum finger strength. At 175 cm tall I'm smack dab in the middle of "average height" and these numbers more or less make sense for me. Jan 25, 2021 · The interesting thing, though, is that my finger strength seems to be awful. Dr. But the model is better tuned for Sport climbing than for bouldering. However, if you are a boulderer, I would recommend you to dedicate training days only to fingerboarding together with any other strength & conditioning content that didn't involve fingers and others days to climbing-based workouts. DO NOT DO BOTH! Pick one that works better for you. 12 route or whatever can be everything from juggy to crimpy, from burly to slabby, from pumpy to bouldery. 20-mm Max Hang (total pounds added) and 20-mm Max hang (strength:weight ratio) - Now to the meaty, juicy stuff that everyone loves. A significant improvement The bilateral deficit is quite significant in some cases! I think 170-180% on two arms is roughly equal to 100% on one arm, but it's not a perfect trend and there's examples of people hanging more on two arms than one arm, a bilateral facilitation. 1A tension block 20mm +125lb max 2-3sec hold, right arm could do more. After naturally building up tendon strength through climbing, introducing hangboarding may help increase your finger strength and give you gains in climbing. Jan 4, 2021 · I made up my own 'max hang' routines on the Beastmaker app (10 sec on, 30 sec off, 6 reps, 4 sets with different grips, bodyweight) based on Dave Macleod's video, and used the Crimpd endurance ones for the repeaters (e. Hang 3 seconds per rep; rest 5 seconds between reps; 3 reps per set; and do 3-5 sets with 4-5 minutes of rest between sets. Basically a full standard deviation below the mean strength for my grades. So far more than 200 climbers have participated in it and there's quite a few entries between V5 and V11. you have reached failure. 87 % of their bodyweight. One of my Max hang days is after an endurance day so my fingers weren't loaded really heavy the day before but I can never do as much weight on that max hang day as I can on the day where I have a full rest day before. hang for 6C boulder. I didn’t do a max finger test at the time, but my last “max strength test” on November 1, 2019 yielded a score of +65lb/30kg or 141% of body weight held. It’s easy to track your progress; just re-test in 8+ weeks as many times as you like! I think he is stronger in the fingers than me, but that is somehow lost in translation to the hangboard. Complete your testing on a Triple Rung (or another 20mm edge hangboard) and submit your data to discover how your max hang compares to other climbers at your current and goal grade. This test is an excellent measure of pulling strength, without the stress of doing a true one-rep max strength test. I can't say with certainty that I'm climbing V10 right now because I don't boulder outside more than a few times a year (though indoors I'm sending V10 often enough). Directions Aug 8, 2023 · Before you engage in any measurements or climbing-specific activity, please ensure you're properly warmed up, including your fingers, elbows, shoulders, and back. I imagine the results of these correlate pretty strongly with each other given that they are using bodyweight for the endurance tests rather than a percentage of max hang (And the same is true for max weighted pull up and max number of pullups - they're probably Jun 22, 2017 · Here is a little web app that I wrote. 120% BW max. Tyler Nelson - at the cutting edge of rock climbing science. Will check if there are significant deviations from linearity for taller guys. Aug 16, 2019 · Max hang strength (7 sec hangs on 20mm edge {Beastmaker 1000 bottom outer edge}) Max 2 arm, 2 rep pull up strength; Power endurance (7 sec on, 3 off hang board protocol @ 60% of max hang weight - for time) Initial Assessment Results. He speculates that a 10″ max hang is more targeted at recruitment whereas low total set repeaters are more beneficial for strength building. Mar 14, 2023 · This showed a significant and positive influence on climbing grade. The third variable providing color coding is median self-reported maximum outdoor grade in the previous 12 months for that range of Str:Wt ratios. Mar 14, 2018 · After being informed in writing about the objectives, characteristics and risks of the study, 26 rock climbers (23 male, 3 female) with and average redpoint level in the past 6 months of 7c+/8a (min 7a, max 9a), 31. Since the red is so damn pumpy, I want to still climb a fair amount on overhung juggy/pumpy routes in these weeks leading up to November, but I would like to be cautious of overdoing it and leaving myself open to injury. These are two-arm hang numbers, so they will look very different from the one-arm pull numbers above. As with the previous max-weight hang protocol, your combination of hold and weight-added should make each hang near-maximal. I posted some time ago and there are 370 climbers currently in the database. 16 % of your bodyweight. My half crimp max hang is very bad. 7 years of age and 11. If you are newer to hangboarding, start with the minimal edge protocol and work your way up to the max hang protocol. 6 Kg; Ape index – 178. May 23, 2024 · Max Hangs: These will help you hang on to smaller edges longer. Our calculator helps to estimate your strength-to-weight ratio and one-arm hang, based on a liner regression of our data. It’s below average for the boulder and sport grades I climb. Usually Ill just do reps in all my grips and finish it off my second superset with one 30s rep of this, mainly from fomo rather than fully understanding scientifically what the benefit actually is Each hang must last a full 7 seconds; Your arms should be straight or bent slightly. V14 — 106% V15 — 110% V16 — 114% V17 — 118%. Rest for exactly 53 seconds. At V10 you should be able to hang 1-arm for a few seconds, at least. Max hang sessions are tricky because you need essentially a full rest day before doing one. Haven’t found much data out there specifically for this hold and 5-7 seconds max hangs. you never do more, because if it really is your max, you won't be able to do more. my max sport and boulder grades (7b+/5. Hangboard benchmark ≠ grades Nov 10, 2022 · Hangboarding is undoubtedly one of the most sport-specific strength exercises that you can do for climbing, aside from climbing itself. Mar 20, 2023 · My max hang (7s, 20mm edge, half crimp) is 32 lbs @ 135lbs, max outdoor grade 5. Mar 4, 2023 · This showed a significant and positive influence on climbing grade. Max grade outdoor v7 - injured for 18 months now (hence the finger training…) so bad correlation, legs are fucked 2A hang +97lb = 163% on 20mm tension grindstone (reps of 7s, not max max). Pretty even which is interesting. Jul 5, 2018 · If you train 4 days per week: place MaxHangs on strength/boulder days. Units are in seconds and ranged from 0 to 120. Nov 21, 2022 · Each set is comprised of 6 hang-rest intervals consisting of a 7-second hang and 3-second rest. Of course isn't this a 100% correct predictor, as a 5. Ok, so in a comment I mentioned that peoples max hang strongly correlated with their bouldering grade. Apr 7, 2024 · "After a few months, I climbed my highest bouldering AND sport climbing grades! I'm still following the training, and I can't wait to see what it will bring! It's a combination of the most efficient training methods out there, synthesized into specific training plans for your personal goal! Feb 24, 2023 · Finger strength, though critical to climbing performance, is just one component to climbing hard. 5-70ish lbs for a 10s max on that edge and 1 arm hang BW-20. Methods for used can be seen in our research , Optimizing Muscular Strength-to-Weight Ratios in Rock Climbing. 2017 opinion — A solid strength base will help an athlete progress up to the V6-7 range indoors fairly rapidly (note: indoor grading is generally 1-3 V grades easier than outside). Another option is to pull on a 30mm edge with one arm at max intensity: the equivalent of trying to one-arm-hang a 30mm edge at half crimp. This is measured by timing how long you can hang on a 20mm edge at body weight without taking a break. This is a finger Last max hang on an 18mm test I was doing +63% BW. 5 reps, at maximum. Most self-reported V10 max climbers can hang between ~145-175%BW on a 20mm edge. The max hang benchmark simply doesn't capture the full picture. ppsw fyngg clr yzyo eufa ywpkpmn rkzlv gpczpt yapm mhjlyu