Hueco bouldering grades. Rock Climbing in Thankhek, Laos and Green Climbers Home .

Hueco bouldering grades row to see equivalent grades in the other system. Bouldering and sport climbing are two related but different disciplines and therefore different grading scales have been created for each. Every bouldering grade begins with a V. Bouldering grades are graded using different systems across different regions. Tech grades generally start to appear from about Severe onwards. Nov 8, 2023 · John “Vermin” Sherman and his climbing partners in Hueco Tanks, Texas, created V scale climbing grades in the early 1990s. Bouldering. Climbing outdoor boulders is the best way to do this, because they're truly reflective of that scale (unlike indoor problems, which are not. For a more in depth look at all the different climbing grade systems, check out this article from Explorers Web. Some climbers compare the difficulty of a boulder problem graded 5 in the Font system to a 6b sport climb, but such a comparison fails to account for the differences in Jun 10, 2024 · Climbing grade conversions for rock climbing and bouldering. 9. 15b 5. Climbers first developed the Font scale around the 1960s. Whether you're a seasoned climber or a newcomer to the sport, understanding the different climbing grades and difficulties is crucial for selecting routes that match your skill level and ensuring a safe and enjoyable experience. 9 and subdivides into weird-ass letter grades, or a bouldering scale devised at one single area, Hueco Tanks, three decades ago. 13 would have maybe v7-8 moves, but a 60 foot 13 would have v4-5 moves Nov 7, 2023 · Climbing Hueco Tanks is iconic. 12b in the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). The boulder problems are stunning, and the history and ecology are stellar. These bouldering grades are nothing like those for roped climbing, where endurance and gear usage come heavily into play. The reason being that the width of grades on a specific scale are not comparable or that grades are not linear across the whole scale. The goal is to reach the top of a boulder problem or route. Bouldering grades indicate how difficult it is to scale a short vertical face or boulder problem without a rope. Dan starts from where kyu ends, Shodan (or 1-Dan) being the next grade higher than 1-Kyu, making it about 7a+/7b in Fontainebleau, V7/V8 in Hueco. 2 5. There are no letters or secondary grades, just a single number that gets bigger as the routes get harder. Conceptually, the "V" Scale is the bouldering equivalent of the earlier Australian (Ewbank) grading system for climbing - both have the advantages of not predefining an upper limit on difficulty measurement (as happened with the original Yosemite Decimal System), nor of having artificial divisions within the range of grades (as is the case with Sep 13, 2023 · What is bouldering? Definition. Introduction to dynamic movements 2. Read this: Everything You Need to Know to Go Bouldering Apr 27, 2025 · 6c+ roughly equals V5/V6 in the Hueco V Scale and 5. 11c in route climbing. 段級(Dankyu) 段級 (read "Dankyu") is a system that was developed in Japan by Japanese climbers. Historically, the three-level "B" system and even the Yosemite Decimal System (sometimes with a "B" prepended, as in "B5. Before we jump into the specifics of climbing grades, let’s first take a look at the three main types of climbing: bouldering, sport climbing, and traditional climbing. Jun 5, 2023 · Out of all the rock climbing grades, the British climbing grading system for trad has given me a headache or two as it’s definitely one of the harder systems to wrap your head around. 12b/c in the YDS. In this edition of On Sight, we’ll demystify climbing grades, and take a closer look at how a subjective sport like climbing tangles with the Jan 1, 2025 · Rock Climbing Grade Conversion Chart Hueco: UK: Font: 5. Climbing grade conversions are not perfect but there are several systems used to compare them. Named for pioneer boulderer, John "Vermin" Sherman who climbed the amazing boulders of Hueco Tanks, TX, the V Scale denotes the level of difficulty of a boulder problem. Rock climbing is a funny sport, the different disciplines all use the same grading scale! The V-grade (short for "Vermin" or "Verm", and also known as the "Hueco" scale) was first published in 1991 by American bouldering pioneer John "Verm" Sherman in his climbing guidebook, Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide. It is typically done on boulders or small rock formations, and climbers rely on their own strength, technique, and problem-solving skills to navigate the routes or “problems”. 0 to 5. However, over time, it became clear that Gill’s grading system was incapable of defining accurate grades for the complexity of boulders being climbed. 10 but have a V2 crux. . 1. 6a to V-scale Apr 29, 2024 · For bouldering, there are two gradingsystems: the Font or Bleau system named after the famous Fontainebleau climbing area in France, and the Hueco or V system named for John “Verm” Sherman and the Hueco Tanks climbing area in the U. Australian 23 28 31 33 35 37 39 UIAA IX+/X- Xll+ 6b Hueco/V Font/Bleau Bouldering Grades vo- vo VI 4 CRUX RANGE. There are currently over 300 climbs rated somewhere in the 5. Standards vary among climbing areas. Grade conversion between the two scales isn’t easy—the Font Scale has more grade options than the V Scale, and both scales are subject to regional differences and individual climbers’ body types, opinions, and skill sets—but in general, here’s how the two scales Kyu is open-ended on the easier side but practically the easiest problem could be around 10-Kyu. 000+ ascents worldwide so you can find the best boulders and routes wherever you are. Bouldering grades fall under the Hueco Scale, aka the V Scale, and look something like this: Letter. Mar 24, 2022 · People need to get over that stuff. Top-rope climbing grades are used for routes where the climber is securely attached to a rope that runs The grade of a rock route is usually based on the crux, the most difficult move. Bouldering grades are the assigned difficulty ratings to boulder problems. The grading scale uses a numerical system with the letter V in front of each grade. Bouldering Grades Jan 18, 2022 · If this scale sounds confusing or too fluid, consider that it’s no more or less arbitrary than any other rating scale—for instance, a decimal system that goes well past its logical endpoint of 5. Basic technical face climbing 4. Related Questions What Does the V stand for on the V-Scale? V stands for Vermin, which was a nick-name for the person who created the V-Scale This of course is from the Hueco bouldering grade to the Ewbank climbing grade. Mar 17, 2023 · A 4 bouldering grade in font converts to a V0 in the Hueco Grading System. Bouldering grades also allow climbers to compare routes and problems at different locations and gyms Class 5: Rock Climbing. In the 1950s, legendary godfather of American bouldering, John Gill, was grading boulders on a super simple scale ascending from B1 to B3. Bouldering Grades. Bouldering Grades V-Scale (or Hueco Scale) Mar 7, 2025 · Bouldering Grades Explained Simply. Rock Climbing Grade Scales Yosemite Decimal System. Climbers love the incredible beauty of the area that they get to experience while climbing on some of the most interesting-looking rocks around. 15d 5. In this article we go over the nuances of rock climbing grades, indoor and outdoor, what they mean, and how to understand them. He initially didn’t include grades for the climbs until his publisher, George Meyers, pressured him to release the book with a grading system attached, so Verm created the V-Scale. Though this is technically also where bouldering grades begin as well. 999. The Yosemite Decimal System is one of the most widely used grading systems in rock climbing. 12b, the other a grade of 5. Simple pinch problems 5. This is to be interpreted as if you can boulder V5 then you can probably climb 26. X) on the roped climbing routes and the Vermin (V0-VX) grades on the bouldering problems. 12b 5. They help boulderers set goals, track progress, and challenge themselves with climbs that are appropriate for their skill level. It is a route called Silence and has only been climbed once, by Adam Ondra. There is some controversy between bouldering grade conversion, however for the most part we can assume the conversions will hold true. Before this, the kyuu grades goes up to 10, and represents easier climbs. Climbing a shodan problem means the climber has reached the advanced level. Invented by the Sierra Club in Dec 28, 2021 · Here’s how the two systems work, interact with each other, and fit into the broader context of rock climbing. Bouldering grades are an integral part of climbing culture, providing a shared language that enables climbers to measure their progress and communicate challenges. Fine tuning. Sherman pioneered the discipline of bouldering and put up countless boulder problems throughout the United States, primarily concentrated in Hueco Tanks, Texas. Learn about Yosemite Decimal, UBG, Hueco Tanks, and more in this comprehensive guide. 000+ crags, 917. Bouldering grade systems in wide use include the Hueco “V” grades (known as the V-scale), Fontainebleau technical grades, and more. A good justification for this is that the hardest boulder problems in the world are V14 and the hardest routes are 35 and these are being put up by the same people (ie. Basic pocket problems These climbing styles are essential for boulder Intermediate climbers navigating Bouldering Grade V5 and facing challenging bouldering difficulty. Bouldering grades are a way to measure the difficulty of climbing problems, helping climbers gauge challenges and track progress. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. ) Dec 12, 2023 · Bouldering grade systems in wide use include the Hueco "V" grades (known as the V-scale), Fontainebleau technical grades, route colors, Peak District grades, and British technical grades. Mar 4, 2025 · We have the grades broken into 5 categories to give a sense of the likelihood of success (climbing without a fall or take) based on a climber's level of activity, fitness and climbing experience. *Note that when climbing, you climb "routes," when bouldering, you climb Mar 23, 2025 · A new era of grades combines the YDS with the V scale. This is where the rock climbing YDS system begins, hence the “5. Converting roped climbing grades to bouldering grades Given the differences between the two styles, it’s difficult to convert roped climbing grades to bouldering grades. If you’ve been to a climbing gym in the US, chances are you have seen the Yosemite Decimal System (5. It differs from the USA system in that a route that is difficult to protect will get a higher grade. Feb 26, 2021 · The only given is that British trad tech grades are harder than the French - a British trad 5a will be significantly more difficult than a French sport 5a. The YDS scale takes into account the technical difficulty of the climbing route, as well as the overall challenge and risk level. While the grading systems vary by region—like the Fontainebleau system in Europe or the V-scale in the U. 4 5 10b 5. 10c 5 5. It goes from V0, the easiest, to V17 Feb 14, 2024 · Bouldering grades serve as an essential guide, allowing climbers to gauge the suitability of a problem for their skill level. A bold route with easy climbing, may get the same grade as a much harder sport route, so the grade isn’t very versatile. From the V-scale’s history and significance to the intricate Fontainebleau scale , these systems have helped climbers push boundaries and achieve new heights. 15. The V scale was developed in the USA and is a system that currently starts with VB for the simplest bouldering problems and goes all the way up to V17 for super experienced professionals. This bouldering grades comparison table is designed to help climbers convert from Hueco to French and back to French to V-Scale. Rock Climbing Grade Conversion Chart French 6b 9b Yosemite 5. 5 5. 2-3: 9-Aug: 2-Jan: I-II: HVD Rock Climbing 2; Report Abuse Most people have a style they are better at or on a particular problem some morphology might make a problem much easier for a certain body size. 2 kyuu is a V4, and 7 kyuu is a V0 for example. 1/5. Convert from Font to Hueco and more. The current hardest route in a M13 at Helmcken Falls in British Columbia, Canada. These three grading systems measure different things, so the conversion isn’t exact—but it’s close enough to help you understand what to expect. 15d (9c). 13c 5 13d 5. Rock Climbing in Thankhek, Laos and Green Climbers Home Jul 8, 2024 · The Hueco Scale. It isn’t too helpful to compare across scales, but it Jun 5, 2023 · The Vermin Scale is named after American bouldering legend, John Sherman, aka “The Verm”. It has been adapted from martial arts, and 1 kyuu is seen as the baseline for boulderers – equivalent to V5/6. Hueco Tanks bouldering grades are the standard for other climbing areas across the US. ”) Sherman came up with most of the book’s V grades himself, though he handed out questionnaires to solicit consensus ratings for harder problems (roughly V5 and up) from a dozen climbers, the entire pool of qualified Hueco boulderers at the time. 13a 5 13b 5. The two most common boulder grading systems are the V-Scale and the Fontainebleau Scale. Oct 23, 2023 · The Bouldering V Scale. In bouldering, "Hueco Grade" refers to a grading system developed at Hueco Tanks, Texas, used to measure the difficulty of boulder problems. The below table runs through the V-Scale and Font-Scale bouldering grade conversion: Apr 11, 2025 · V-grades or the V-scale (also sometimes called the 'Hueco' scale) was established in 1991 by American bouldering pioneer John 'Verm' Sherman - that's where the V comes from! Sherman used the scale to grade problems in his book Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide. They're trying to get a sense of how their gym grades compare to the Hueco/Vermin scale. Aug 18, 2017 · Rock climbing grades are subjective. Grades can be subjective and may vary slightly The most widely used system for rating bouldering problems in the USA is the "V" or "Hueco" Scale. Fontainebleau; Developed in the Fontainebleau bouldering area in France in the mid 1900s, and used throughout a large portion of Europe. International Climbing Grade Comparison Apr 27, 2025 · Mixed climbing grades generally go from M1 to M12, with M13-16 in existence but not typically used. Oct 12, 2020 · What is the Highest Climbing Grade? The highest climbing grade, as of February 2020, is a 5. I have outdoor projects that I've spent multiple sessions on that are 3-4 grades easier than my max grade because they have style or specific moves that hit my climbing weaknesses. S. Apr 27, 2025 · If you’re trying to understand how a 6c bouldering grade converts to the V Scale or sport climbing grades, here’s the quick answer: 6c roughly equals V5 in the Hueco (V) Scale and 5. The V-scale (sometimes called the Hueco scale) was developed in the 1990s by legendary American boulderer John "Vermin" Sherman in Hueco Tanks, Texas. They may not be able to complete every climb in a category, but should expect a high level of success with regular climbing over a 3 month period. 5 (font) to V-scale. Grades are subjective. When using bouldering grades, it really is only used in this country. 15d). With a clear understanding of the grading system, climbers can navigate a spectrum of climbs, from those well within their capabilities to more challenging endeavors that push their limits. 3/5. Apr 13, 2025 · Climbing Difficulty Ranking IntroductionClimbing is a sport of precision, strength, and mental endurance. The Largest Rock Climbing Content Discover the world’s largest rock climbing content - Topo Guru is now powered by theCrag! Our renewed climbing app contains 90. Fontainebleau scale (international) Bouldering started in France’s Forest of Fontainebleau, so bouldering grade scales did, too. Bouldering grades are graded using different systems across different regions The V-grade (short for "Vermin" or "Verm", and also known as the "Hueco" scale) was first published in 1991 by American bouldering pioneer John "Verm" Sherman in his climbing guidebook, Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide. The first climber to complete a route assigns a grade, which can change as more people make the ascent and come to a consensus. Sport Climbing Grades Two graded climbing routes at an American climbing gym. About this Bouldering Grades table: This is a bouldering climbing grade conversion chart. Bouldering grade conversions between the V-Scale and the Font-scale are mostly accurate. South African rock climbing grades are very similar to Australian, with the exception that the upper end of the scale is currently at 41. Combining the adjectival and tech grades gives us a really good idea of the overall nature of the route. The Yosemite Decimal Scale for Auto Belay/Top Rope/Lead Climbing and the Hueco/V Scale for Bouldering. 1-5. Sep 26, 2024 · Climbing grades can be overwhelming, but understanding ratings systems is crucial. Basic crimpy routes 3. V scale is the most commonly used bouldering grade. Bouldering grades are graded using different systems across different regions Jun 23, 2024 · Bouldering grades serve as a universal language for climbers to communicate the difficulty level of a climb. Feb 9, 2024 · He introduced this grading scale by releasing the bouldering guidebook Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide in 1991. 12") were also used. Climbing is an exhilarating and challenging sport that attracts adventurers from all walks of life. 12d 5. [14] It's really hard to equate the grades of bouldering and rope because if a route is 30 feet, a 5. [14] Sep 18, 2023 · North Mountain alone has 850 problems, so there are hundreds of options, grades, and climbing styles at Hueco. 15 range, all of which are impressively high climbing grades. Sherman sought to create a standardized system to measure boulder problem difficulty, and the "V" in V-scale stands for "Vermin," his climbing nickname. —all aim to reflect a combination of physical and technical demands. Jun 23, 2024 · Top-rope climbing grades are indicated by the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) scale, ranging from 5. Why? Because boulderers are shaped like V’s, with broad shoulders and very skinny legs that come to a point at their feet. 5 14b 5. grades with the outdoor climbing grades of surrounding Climbing Styles found in grade for USA V5. Apr 27, 2025 · The 6A bouldering grade is about the same as a V3 on the Hueco scale or a 5. Newly developed routes can have a YDS grade of 5. These ranking systems, often referred to as grading systems, provide a standardized way to evaluate the challenge a route Oct 15, 2021 · The two bouldering grading systems are the V Scale (used in the United States) and the Font Scale (used outside the US). COM 6B 6B+ 7B 8B CRUX RAN Jan 28, 2022 · The Australian climbing grade scale for technical scrambling and rock routes, another open-ended rating system, runs from 1 (~YDS 3) to 39 (5. You may remember from the section on the Yosemite Decimal System that climbs in the United States will have a difficulty rating and then, if necessary, a second There are grade systems for bouldering, grade systems for sport climbing, grade systems for aid climbing and so on but even grade systems for the same style don’t always translate well between each other. A 5 Font bouldering grade converts to a V1 in the v scale. Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed without the use of ropes or harnesses. One has a grade of 5. Combining bouldering grades with traditional climbing grades lets us know what to expect for both endurance and power. Aug 24, 2023 · So let’s dive in and unravel the mystery of climbing grades! Types of Climbing Grades. Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is done on lower and shorter walls, usually without the use of ropes or harnesses. Hueco; Primarily used in North America, this was developed at Hueco Tanks in the 1990s. A 5+ (sometimes graded as 5b or 5c) can be converted into a V2 bouldering grade on the V-scale. Bouldering grades gauge your strength and the difficulty of the moves. Whether you're scaling indoor walls or conquering outdoor crags, understanding the intricacies of climbing difficulty rankings is essential for progression and safety. . Sep 16, 2021 · Bouldering Grades vs. The grades range from V0 (easiest) to V17 (hardest known), with the "V" standing for Vermin, named after the climber John Sherman whose nickname inspired the system. ” before the rest of the YDS grade. For more information about climbing in the area, check out the essential bouldering guide by Matt Wilder and Jason Kehl from the AAC Library. 000+ routes and 1. iipfkuu sqssnux eezaozsn acxsp pwjrfe anmegumq ycb kesmnf ukamf otvmk