Alpine savy. puffy coat for added warmth or as an emergency layer.

Alpine savy Sep 1, 2021 · Ever bailed from a sport route? If not, it's probably going to happen someday, and when it does, you’ll need to have a retreat strategy. (Alex says it's his favorite, so that's what I'm calling it. Curated instructional videos. “ Oct 26, 2022 · Kong Slyde + 2 meters of rope = low cost adjustable tether. Feb 26, 2019 · Navigation resources: GPX track files for more than 70 of the most popular alpine routes in the Pacific Northwest, and links to a wilderness navigation tutorial video series on YouTube; Instructional videos: links to a carefully curated list of solid YouTube instructional videos, a great place to start if you are learning about mountaineering Hmm Sort of. Aug 11, 2023 · A popular approach to crevasse rescue is to use a 2:1 “drop C” as the primary mechanical advantage system. \bThere are are lots of crafty ways to use it that may be new to you, and also some common mistakes you want to avoid. Jun 17, 2023 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. There's more to it than what’s usually taught in books and by many instructors. Apr 16, 2023 · When you arrive at a bolted anchor, and the stance is fairly small, a good first step is often to clip a quickdraw. downhill gloves. They all share a few common design elements: a spring-loaded toothed cam that lets the rope (or device) move in one direction but not the other, and a high efficiency, sealed bearing steel pulley wheel (aka sheave). 1,917 likes · 18 talking about this. Here are two approaches, each offering a secure, speedy, and simple method to swap leads, with a minimum of gear and futzing around. Mar 29, 2019 · 1 - Fix one strand. “ambition exceeding ability”), there can be lots of valid reasons to turn around on an alpine route. =^) Apr 14, 2020 · Having a simple and consistent method for belay changeovers, clearly understood by both partners, can really speed up multi pitch climbing. Premium Members get even more. When you bail from a route, be at a one pitch sport climb or an alpine multipitch, the objectives are similar: Get to the ground in one piece, with each anchor point strong enough but not overbuilt, and leave a minimum of gear behind. May 2, 2024 · Petzl makes a nice family of pulleys with the surname “Traxion”. This triples up the webbing material, shortening your runner to a manageable length. So, If you want to climb one of these more common routes, that’s a great place to look first. Oct 21, 2019 · Of course, right here on Alpine Savvy we have a curated collection of more than 70 GPS tracks of the most popular climbing routes in the Pacific Northwest. with only few or questionable intermediate fixing points, traverses, confusing route courses or the possibility of far, uncontrolled falls. May 6, 2020 · Carabiner rating overview: To attain the CE (“Conformité Européene”) safety rating, carabiners are tested in three loading configurations: along the spine (major axis), gate open, and minor axis (aka, cross loaded). rescue shovel. Girth hitch an aid climbing fifi hook to an adjustable tether. Be it challenging weather, poor conditions, route finding errors, or general loss of mojo (a. if the stance is more marginal, you can tie a one handed clove hitch to attach yourself directly to one bolt. Let's look at some techniques and video from pr The Alpine Club of Italy did some testing, here are the answers. If you’re doing a 1:1 haul of fairly heavy bags on a big wall climb, you probably want a slightly larger diameter pulley wheel to get a small increase in efficiency. I’ve also grown to 110K+ Instagram followers from all over the world, and that has led to some great connections. Feb 2, 2025 · Warning: Climbing is dangerous. Apr 14, 2025 · Quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. This is typically rigged with a clove hitch, which to be honest usually doesn't work too well. Sep 27, 2019 · Hmm Sort of. Jan 2, 2023 · There are many different approaches to crevasse rescue. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of an experienced climber, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. Rather than using a huge honker cordelette, instead you use a Dyneema sling; I prefer 180 cm. (This is a free preview from Mark's new online class class on alpine climbing. com/ and his instagram https://w Mar 8, 2023 · As I've been getting back into climbing over the last year, I've had an odd obsession with coming up with a "Perfect" PAS and rap extension. Cost is about $5 in materials, and five minutes of your time with basic hand tools. This post covers: anchor shelf on a tree, “casting” (not throwing) a rappel rope, block leading tip, proper tails on flat overhand knots, and a caution on girth hitched rappel rings. 100% free content - no ads, no paywalls, no paid product promotions, no affiliate marketing links. Nov 17, 2018 · It's fun to click around in places that have some pretty crazy declination, such as New Zealand and up in northern Alaska and Canada. Inspiring mountain photography. While it can be helpful in advanced rope rescue scenarios, it’s not required in crevasse rescue, and in the opinion of various experts, does not need to be taught to beginners. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em. thermos for hot water/tea. Trew Gear Anorak shell. This translates to ultra-caution in all parts of your hauling system and interaction with bags, haul lines, docking cords, and pulleys. . With modern tools like a progress capture pulley and micro ascenders, crevasse rescue is usually faster and simpler. Aug 17, 2024 · Here's a fast and simple method to build an anchor using the rope, typically on two good bolts. I am the constant, and I pull in friends, freelancers, and advisors as the need arises to offer my clients the best possible service. puffy coat for added warmth or as an emergency layer. Apr 15, 2023 · John Godino has been consistently creating climbing and navigation content for years on his website https://www. 400+ climbing tips and navigation resources for the savvy alpinist. Feb 27, 2025 · Retreat (aka bail) anchors need to be strong enough for a rappel, use a minimum of gear and cordage, and be simple to rig. Feb 3, 2019 · For alpine climbing, you want the Micro. The double wrap holds t Aug 4, 2020 · The Petzl Tibloc, an ultralight emergency ascender, is a very handy piece of gear. This website offers information and ideas (not advice) intended to reduce your risk when climbing. Jul 20, 2018 · Alpine Tips. Some older methods are cumbersome, slow to set up, and add unnecessary clutter. alpinesavvy. A simple trick is this method, best described with a photo. Knots, Beginners John Godino 5/6/19 Knots, Beginners John Godino 5/6/19. Mar 5, 2024 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Learn where you can maybe cut a few corners and see examples here. Thanks for your support! Feb 22, 2023 · The retraced figure 8 is probably the most important knot you'll ever tie, so let’s learn the nuances of tying it correctly, every time. ) Premium Art Apr 24, 2025 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Thanks for your support! Alpine Savvy s d r o p o t S e n g e u 5 8 u g 8 r , l m i 8 2 u f F a 7 5 i f 0 8 1 f 2 c 0 f 0 0 g y b 2 2 3 2 1 5 f 0 2 l 2 r · Shared with Public Feb 2, 2019 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. This clever device works much the same as the Petzl Adjust tethers, but costs a lot less, around $12. The German Alpine Club (Deutscher Alpenverein, or DAV) is one of the leading proponents of this technique. e. Rainier National Park made a clever decision matrix to help remove some emotion from this important choice. k. Climbing tips and navigation resources for the savvy alpinist AlpineSavvy. Click around south of Australia in Antarctica, and see why compasses are often useless for polar explorers - near the northern and southern magnetic poles, compasses start doing some pretty crazy things! Jun 28, 2022 · Check out what IFMGA Certified Guide Mark Smiley takes for a two day Rainier climb up one of the standard routes. Learn a few here. Beginner big wall climbers, you know what I'm talking about; you clipped the haul bag in the wrong spot and it needs to get moved, whoops! Dec 17, 2018 · On big wall climbs taking two or three days with a team of two, you can probably use a traditional 1:1 hauling system. Dec 3, 2024 · Method #3: Alpine block and tackle Want to learn about the alpine block and tackle, and see a video of how to set it up for crevasse rescue equalization? (Sure you do!) Join my Premium Membership to read the whole article. But, if you can't find it there, check out Peakbagger. Learn all about the Tibloc, starting with how to properly pronounce it! I’d like to send you a special link to nine of the most popular articles on my Premium Member pages, AND a short weekly email with four quick tips to help you climb better, safer and smarter. You also get to bend the normal anchor building rules a bit. Caution: Don't do this on “open” anchor hardware (like anchor hooks) This technique should only be used on “closed” anchor hardware , such as a ring, quick link, or chain, where there is no possibility of the rope coming unclipped. Savvy Alpine was started by me - I’m Matt Harrop, and I am the center of the company, but I am by no means the only one contributing. com - Get skilled, stay found. headlamp. Jun 6, 2021 · Rigging two opposed stoppers is a good trick to make a single multi directional placement. Many of the tips here are appropriate only for those with prior experience. Originally inspired by this Alpine Savy Post, I've redesigned my system with 3 different materials. probe (ideally 300cm long) Leatherman multi-tool. Oct 16, 2020 · Thanks to AMGA Certified Rock Guide and Assistant Alpine Guide Derek DeBruin for assistance with this article. If you do them wrong, you could die. Feb 7, 2023 · Stay sharp and practice your anchor skills! If you have a simple training board like this, you can rig up just about anything you can imagine: top rope anchors, rappel transitions, multipitch, and more. Double it, tie two a figure 8 or overhand knots (with the stitching in one of the end loops), and then use two strands to make an anchor for both toproping and multipitch. When one strand of the rope is fixed to the anchor, and a loop is on the load, and you pull on the other side of the rope, you create a 2:1 mechanical advantage. Carabiner inside the master point knot If you clip a carabiner inside the master Jun 2, 2024 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Alpine Savvy. Nov 15, 2020 · This is per the recommendation of the American Alpine Club. Over 500 FREE tips and navigation resources for climbing and mountaineering. Aug 24, 2024 · You may find yourself in a climbing situation where you need to transfer a BIG load from one anchor point to another. extra buff. extra wool hat. Dec 27, 2018 · The munter mule overhand, or MMO knot, is a load releasable hitch. If you have a decent place to stand, you might only need to clip the rope to the draw. Check it out Since 2018, after putting in thousands of hours and posting over 550 articles, I’m proud to say it’s the largest and most detailed collection of alpine climbing tips available, anywhere. This is typically done by putting a bight knot (overhand, figure 8, clove or butterfly) in one rope strand, clipping that knot to the anchor, attach your Grigri to the fixed strand, and rapping on that strand. helmet. Here's what they have to say about it. If the shelf is an anchor point for a climber, you Aug 25, 2022 · A few words on hauling, from big wall expert Andy Kirkpatrick: “Hauling is potentially one of the most dangerous aspects of big wall climbing. goggles. Climb better, smarter, and safer with Alpinesavvy. Learn the tricks to make a perfect figure 8, plus how to do it so it's much easier Here’s a DIY gear trick that’s handy when cleaning a traversing aid pitch, or maybe a overhanging sport route. Apparently the German Alpine Club (DAV) thinks not; I’m looking for a technical recommendation on that, stay tuned. Nov 24, 2023 · Alpine Threadworks rescue sled & bivy. Jun 18, 2024 · Let's have a look at the basic mechanics of the 2:1 drop loop. But, there’s a few more tricks than the standard set up that can make your life easier. But, IFMGA Guide Dale Remsberg says yes; but to use the shelf, a load needs to be clipped into the master carabiner, so the shelf is best used to belay from. Mar 11, 2025 · Method #3: Alpine block and tackle Want to learn about the alpine block and tackle, and see a video of how to set it up for crevasse rescue equalization? (Sure you do!) Join my Premium Membership to read the whole article. Here's an improvement: wrap the sling TWICE around the top carabiner, and then tension it. sunscreen & lip balm Feb 8, 2024 · The anchor belay method, however, is the more recommendable belay method in routes with a more alpine character, i. Premium Article available Jun 7, 2024 · Well, here’s the modern iteration of that idea, in a much lighter and more compact package. Learn some of the advantages of the drop C over the 3:1 Z drag, some easy hacks to make it work even better, and how to overcome a couple of potential problems. If the shelf is an anchor point for a climber, you With nothing more than a cordelette and two carabiners, the “alpine block and tackle” creates a bit of mechanical advantage that can help you move a large load a short distance. As we like to say at Alpine Savvy, most any sort of hands on skill like learning a knot is a Jul 30, 2018 · Answer: the “alpine quickdraw”. Download GPS tracks for more than 70 routes in the Pacific Northwest. (pdf article link) (Bold text mine) “Consequently, you ought to be familiar with the anchor belay method which is the basic method for multi-pitch routes. However, for climbs much longer than this, or a team of three, or when you or your teammate are significantly lighter than the bags, or if the hauling is on terrain less then vertical, or maybe when you simply want to suffer a lot less, you may well want to add some mechanical Oct 24, 2018 · Using a cordelette is standard practice for many climbers when building multi-piece gear anchors. Connect with Derek: Facebook and Instagram Also, thanks to Blake Harrington for this article which covers some of the same key points made in this one. Jun 21, 2019 · Despite access to solid weather forecasts, deciding to continue on a climb or bail is often a challenging and subjective decision. The climbing rangers at Mt. Maybe. a. flmic cenm wgtq lvvvg ytivam cwchbsv gqrtewg pnjuzza itgjbz jplo